Color, Contouring and Highlighting
Your cheeks and your lips give you the opportunity to add a pinch of natural blush or a blast of color. Create a look that suits your day with these easy tips.
Brush: Use the blusher brush on the cheekbone, cheeks, jawline, chin, forehead, and nose.
It’s important to sculpt your face based on the shape of your face and your features. The perfect face is an oval-shaped face because it has the most pleasing width/length ratio.
To create an oval shape:
Make an oval with your hands and place it around your face.
Your forehead: If you have a low forehead, start the oval at your hairline. If your forehead is high, begin the oval between the hairline and the eyebrows.
Your chin: If you have a prominent or pointed chin, end the oval at the chin line. If your chin recedes, end the oval below the chin line.
Any part of the face that falls outside the oval is what you contour or shade with a dark color to make it seem smaller. Any part of the face that falls inside the oval should be highlighted with a light color to bring forward and give the illusion that it is larger than it actually is.
What type of face shape do you have? You can optimize your contour and highlight based on your face shape:
ROUND FACE: To minimize the width of the face, use your darkest shade to create a shadow on the sides of the forehead. Carry this shadow down the sides of the face and around the jaw line. Blend well with a sponge.
OBLONG FACE: To shorten the length of the oblong face, a dark color is applied both on the forehead along the hairline and at the tip of the chin. Blend well with a sponge.
SQUARE FACE: Shade the corners of the forehead, the cheeks and the jaw line to soften the straight lines of the face. Blend well with a sponge to give a rounded look to the hairline.
DIAMOND FACE: Highlight the sides of the forehead and at the jaw line. Blend well with a sponge.
Anything outside of the oval is contoured. Anything that falls short of the oval is highlighted.
TRIANGLE FACE: Highlight the temples at the hairline and extend down to the cheekbones to increase the width of the forehead. Contour the lower part of the face under the chin and jaw line. Blend well with a sponge.
INVERTED TRIANGLE FACE: Darken the areas on both sides of the forehead, down to the top of the ear close to the hairline. Highlight down the sides of the jaw. Blend well with a sponge.
OVAL FACE: Even the oval face needs a little contouring and highlighting if any part of the face falls inside or outside of the oval you make with your hands.
Begin by using a dark blusher to contour. Go over the areas you contoured when shaping your face, shading everything that falls outside the oval lightly with the dark blusher.
Next, suck in the cheekbones. Envision an imaginary line that starts downward directly under the center of the eye. Extend this line to the hollow of the cheek, below the cheekbone. Begin applying your dark blusher from this spot in an upward motion into the hairline. Blend well with a sponge.
Next turn to your light blusher, whose purpose is to highlight. The easiest way to remember where to highlight with blusher is to remember that blusher should look like the natural kiss of the sun. When you’re out in the sun, the areas that respond to the sun first are the tip of the nose, cheeks, forehead and chin. This is just where you should apply your light blusher with the blusher brush. Remember to blend well with a sponge every time you apply color to the face.